Found the problem thanks.
The central wheel nut was not tight as you predicted, pulling it up to the correct torque removed the problem.
While I was in there I replaced the rear disk and pads (all EBC parts) and made sure that everything else was tight and orientation of spacer was correct.
Thanks for your help
I will dismantle today to check it over
Thanks for your input
I have just discovered a considerable amount of play in the rear wheel of my C1 Exec (30k miles).
I presume this is the rear wheel bearings, which I believe are different from the Front Bearings.
Has anyone published a guide to replacing the rear bearings, and where they can be sourced, any other parts/kit required?
Thanks in anticipation of your help
I have been riding without helmet since I acquired my Exec C1 in 2001 and have only been ticked off once.
Just a brief word with the Officer asking that I don't let him catch me doing it again.
Enjoy your C1
Interesting - I have 2 C1s and an LE MkII - which has the 200cc engine, hand change and hand start. I use it regularly for VMCC and Old Bike runs. The power output (6.5hp) means that you have to maintain momentum at all costs, so the roadholding is a major issue in order to keep that hard-won speed up. Great fun!
I don't know. The sales guy just told me to avoid extreme bank angles due to dire consequences. Having said that, I took it to the defined limit and it was incredible, anything further would be insane anyway.
I had a go in a Carver a couple of years ago. The most memorable thing was the incredible feeling of grip on corners - because the cabin tilts it is totally unlike a conventional car on cornering - there is no sidethrust at all felt by the driver. I drove it for about half an hour, a friend and I considered buying one between us as a toy. I am not technical, but there is sensor which determines sidethrust on the front wheel and this controls the angle of bank - the car has a bank indicator with a Do Not Exceed level. Apparently if you do exceed it and/or one end breaks away the car immediately applies opposite bank and flips over. To be avoided.
The other thing to avoid is taking corners too tight - the inside rear wheel is a metre or so inside the track of the front wheel - boy did I find that out the hard way! The nearest you can liken it to with the tandem cabin and automatic leaning is a high-performance aircraft and they are immense fun to drive. But far too expensive
I'm stuck in Oz.
Not the worst place in the world to be, but inconvenient nonetheless.
Flight cancelled and then offered standby queue with an expectation of a possible flight on 30th April - 12 days hence.
Not quite sure what I'm going to do about it.
PM'd you, looking forward to getting to grips with the CMON
I did not disconnect the battery during my investigation, but I did the Moditec Reset procedure, which I understand to be discon battery, 2 full throttles and then 15 minutes idle. The machine was fine at first but then deteriorated again.
Thanks for the input
May I jump in on this?
My C1 200 has done over 27k miles and I have never had any idling issues. I ran the bike recently without the dashboard to try to find the source of an annoying rattle (I failed) During the test ride the engine stopped once, but having put it all back together the idle speed is low and erratic. I have tried the Moditec reset but it doesn't help. Any ideas please - I am pretty sure I did nothing to the bike except ride about a mile with the instrument panel off.
Any help appreciated, thanks
I have taken a look at the area you suggest and I can be pretty sure that mine hasn't been adjusted either. It's a pretty intriguing arrangement - why is there only adjustment on the nearside for example? Anyway, I'll take a look as soon as I have time, thanks.
Your comments about sources of vibration are also noted and I think I will change the variator pins - my bike has done 26k plus miles and they have never been replaced. I am not totally convinced they are the problem, but as I said I'm becoming pretty frustrated in trying to find the cause, and it makes the bike quite unpleasant to ride.
I am interested in this nut - is the adjustment procedure documented anywhere?
My reason for asking is that I replaced the engine pivot bearings a while back but I am now feeling a harsh vibration at around 2000-3000 rpm from the engine. It feels as if the engine vibrations are not being absorbed and I have some really annoying resonances from the bodywork. I have ordered the forward pivot bolt, nut and sleeves as I have tried everything else I can think of. I have also ordered variator pins in case the problem lies there, because the vibration is typically evident when I pull away. The C1 is otherwise fine and runs really well above 3000 rpm.
Any suggestions gratefully received.
A friend has just bought an Aprilia Mana 850, and it seems really good. Not really a scoot, it has a fully automatic transmission with a button pre-select if you want it for 7 speeds. Quite a machine, I haven't ridden it yet, but he is really enjoying it. Just Google "Aprilia Mana 850", there's plenty of information. If you must have a scoot, Silverwing, Yamaha TMax, Piaggio X9, Suzuki Burgman, Aprilia Atlantic.
My comments on the Silverwing above.
I am afraid I am enthusiastic about all my machines - if I don't like them, I don't keep them.
The LE has been in my family for about 20 years and I finally a couple of years ago decided to sort it out to use on low-mileage runs, up to about 40 miles. It has done about 27k miles and is original, so rusty in places. My focus has been restoring the engine and running gear rather than the bodywork since that represents an investment in a usable machine - I could spent £1-2k restoring the paintwork to have a motorcycle still only worth £1k. I have had the bores honed, no rebore needed and fitted new rings, also had new big ends. Total cost around £350.
I now use it on many evening runs during the Summer plus local short VMCC runs - I use the Commando (5k miles from new, but that's another story) for longer runs. The LE is fantastic fun to ride because of its low power and great roadholding. It's all about conservation of momentum combined with the hand-start and hand gearchange. All in all it was a technically advanced machine in its day but doomed because it was too radical and too expensive (£125 when a new Bantam was £79).
It has many foibles, including carb-icing in Winter, but they only add to its charm. In spite of its tatty appearance it commands attention, everyone can remember the Noddy Bike and has a story about how quietly the Rozzer approached and how they outran him on their push-bike, so it opens up a lot of friendly conversations.
I am aware that we are way off topic here so I'll shut up now, and of course my enthusiasm for the LE is in no way a criticisim or comment on any other machine. I am just as enthusiastic about my C1s.
How about this then:http://www.visordown.com/motorcyclenews/view/first_look_bmw_clever_iproject/6988.html
Just back from the NW200, and boy, did the Silverwing come into it's own.
We spent some time touring around the Northern Irish coastline, fantastic roads and mainly empty.
The Silverwing didn't miss a beat and while at times was a bit behind, in terms of averages it didn't let me down.
Retribution was mine. I was invited to lead the pack (17 bikes all bigger than the Silverwing) back to the ferry at Dun Laoghaire as I'd be the 'slowest'. With the weather conditions the naked bikes had real difficulty keeping up with me cruising at 8* mph, it was just too wet and windy for their riders. When we reached Holyhead, they all opted to take the A5 and M6 route home, while I chose to route via Trawsfynnedd and Bala Lake, and again it was a wet but totally acceptable ride. I clocked 967 miles for the trip and as I climbed off the bike I genuinely felt very very pleased that I had used it for the trip.
Incidentally, my endorsement of the Silverwing is in no way a criticism of any other machine, I just happen to own one and am pleased with my choice.
I have run a Silverwing for 16k miles and have found it fantastic, both in terms of ability to cover ground and sheltered motorcycling. I am off to the NW200 tomorrow on mine with a group of other motorcyclists and while mine will be the lowest capacity machine, it will not disgrace itself in terms of speed, comfort or roadholding. If the weather is inclement, then I will be the least affected.
I guess you've checked the spark plug lead?
My C1 200 started and then immediately stopped a few weeks back and then refused to start again.
Removing the plug cap, I found lots of white powder deposit inside the cap, and it refused to grip properly on the plug when re-connected, so I guess the deposit was aluminium dust? BUT the bike did start after cleaning out. I then replaced the lead and cap with one I had in reserve, and I have the NGK cap on order to re-make the faulty one as a reserve.
That is the 3rd cap/lead I've put onto my C1 in 25k miles.
Hope this helps
Following Mad's praise of the Hoop and my (slightly nervous) condemnation of my brand-new front Hoop fitted last week, I have just checked my tyre pressures. The front pressure was sub-20 psi, where it should have been 29, according to the manual. Apologies to all, I have corrected the pressure and am now re-evaluating same. The words 'open', 'swallow', 'ground' spring to mind, not necessarily in that order.
I am inclined to think that the play in the bearings and the pitch of the ABS sensor created a resonance at a particular wheel rotation speed. For example, when I applied the brake, it would initially retard normally, but would then go through an ABS cycling phase as speed was lost.
I have never had this problem before (13,750 miles) and it occurs to me that the riders who complain about ABS cutting in prematurely in another thread are actually seeing the consequences of front wheel bearing judder. Certainly Wollastons were 100% certain that replacement bearings would solve the problem, and they were 100% correct!
Had I seen this problem before, I too would have been very concerned about ABS on the C1, but as it is and has been for all my other miles, I would not be without it. I also have ABS on my Silverwing and on my R1100RS before that.
Hope this helps
Regards to all
> To me they are a revelation and have totally transformed my 200s.
That is an interesting observation. I had a new Hoop put onto the front of my 200 this very week, so I now have a pair. Now I know it's been windy this week, but at one point the C1 started to weave unnervingly at around 60 mph. I have not had the opportunity to really evaluate this, but it seems that going from the original Boppa / Hoop to Hoop / Hoop has degraded my machine. Time will tell, and if I find with time I am wrong, I will say so.
Another observation fom this experience. In order to put the new tyre on, obviously the front axle had to be removed. When I went to pick up the bike from the service Wollaston's reported that the front brake was misbehaving. I tried it out and found that the ABS was kicking in and creating the well-known shuddering during braking. This was very evident, and there was no way that it could possibly have been there before it went in for service. A check of the wheel bearings showed them have quite a lot of play, and so I elected to have them replaced, and also to have new brake pads as mine would have needed replacement soon anyway. This work was done the next day, and the bike is now perfectly ok.
So, as I see it, the ABS system found the loose wheel bearings, and I guess the effort of driving out the front axle loosened the bearings in the first place. I inspected them immediately after removal, and they were in a right old state.
Hope this helps others with 'front-end funnies', and I have to say that Wollaston's were very prompt, efficient and up-front in their dealings with me.
I was glad of my C1 Owners C1ub discount!
In my other life I go by the name of Jeff Barringer, although it's not much of a life so I don't like to talk about it. I think you will find that I am paid up, but I forgive your momentary loss on concentration on the basis that you have an awful lot on your plate at present.
Please confirm that I am indeed one of the Founding Few
Hi All, I'm in too.
Regards to all
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