I do wish it came with a kick start sometimes
until tomorrow anyway :-)
you must be getting good at this by now :-)
I did 50k on my way to johns.
mind you my bike is rather like triggers broom! :-)
had it snapped? it looks like bits of a broken spring all around that picure and the last one.
I did, on the forum I told you it was the sprag clutch and what to do with it :-)
so the caps had been clipped but ended up the sliders.
if the caps are in position and clamped up with decent clamps then they should both stay in position and prevent leaks. you need exhaust clamps though not jubilee clips as they aren't strong enough.
the oil in the forks doesn't do a lot but there is enough pressure to squirt it about a bit. it might be worth refilling them if they have sent a lot out over time.
take the clips off and see if the caps are cracked, if so they will pop on easy enough. then you want some mikalor 47-51mm exhaust clamps off ebay and a 10mm spanner. clamp at the base of the cap and it should grip nice and tight, put the crack at the back of you want. clean forks off then ride for a bit to see if anything weeps out. if you want to you could double the clamp up but if it weeps onto the slider then its either the inner seal or some fluid trapped between the two seals which is blowing out.
to service forks I drop the whole bottom section from the yoke usually with a bike lift as its much quicker than the other two ways and gets around seized bolts. without a lift I reckon you could walk the bike up on the front stand over a kerb to get clearance.
caps are expensive (they were 28 quid ea but bmw are getting silly now) and usually on back order.
I would have done the cheap fix first and seen if they accepted it before booking it in anywhere, at least their labour rate isn't disastrously expensive. cant say whether they are padding it out as they probably do it different to me.
rear shocks do go and the crud is a sign of it, oem shocks are about 60 quid. bmw 145 ea (before price hike) hagons about that for a pair. 365mm fork eye shocks 10mm eye 8mm fork.
my day rate is £150 plus bits regardless of what work I do on it. forks, service and lights would take about a day. spoken for this week though.
I've been reading up and looking at the numerous you tube vids. loads of questions on forums in 07 I read from design students wanting ideas. there are a couple on the same vein.
from what I understand they use two gyros to hold them upright and some have even speculated that the gyros themselves could be a source of battery recharging which is interesting.
of course I was looking at it from a c1 point of view and whether it would be an easy affair to mount a couple of smaller ones. I cant wait to see any crash test vids :-)
hya - welcome and don't forget the forum if it seems quiet here.
if you get pulled then its an fpn not points so if you appeal it it often gets let off as not being in the public interest, if you don't want the hassle then find a lightweight snowboard helmet. especially when its cold.
PM sent, doing a service/maintenance call on stu up the road sunday which will take 3-4 hours probably then I will pop down your way, hopefully you'll be back as normal for monday.
I'll need a full address though.
shouldn't make a difference as you would have had at most an oil change, variator and brake check. they will know about valve checks but not on these and if they did I doubt they would have checked em.
and yes a spark plug can cause issues, a loose plug will cause compression stalls and a bad cap will stop it starting :-)
yes, but I'm used to the run in for those in peril of local mechanics rates. unless you stuck to 30 mph it probably wouldn't make it here. 100 constant miles will kill a valve which makes the job considerably more difficult. as it stands it wont be so bad just the cost of shims which is bad enough.
when was it last serviced?
start it and leave it running, if it stalls on its own then its the valves. which I think it most most likely is as if it was the wiring it would cut out on bumps. saying it cuts on lights and low revs is a telltale. hopefully its catchable.
do you want a visit?
the alarm is pretty hopeless and it might be best to disable it.
you need to remove the dash and locate the right plugs, my memory is vague at the mo but it is on here and the forum. basically there is a 6 way white plug and I think its two 8 way grey ones near the orange ignition one. the grey ones loop the bike through the alarm so you need to take it out by unplugging those three and only putting one grey one back again.
if you cant find it them I'll try to find the pics I had or go outside and do the one on the rebuild which needs doing.
it should thin out after time if the oil drag is slowing it down.
try the pressure switch fix (clean out the hole or put a washer under the spring) or turn the idle up a touch on the throttle housing (small allen screw between the air box and throttle body).
I seem to remember a forumer and something to do with boats
so did you buy her a little mermaid activity set? :-)
lots of museums, shops etc.. but its getting around, probably more to do around the area, cadbury world isn't so far from there but 5 is an awkward age to cater for as they can be just as happy in a good pub with icecream and a play area
it should be a warm rain so take ponchos, changes of clothes, sense of humour and enjoy it :-)
I tell people to stick a spare belt behind the seatbelts as it can keep its shape then everything else packs about into the shoulder spaces. just make sure the belts still move so cans and bottles are better.
the seatwell I stick surgical gloves under the tip of the seat and usually keep cloths, zip ties, a small hand cleaning kit or sugar and washing liquid and maybe washer fluid concentrate or redex in a smaller bottle down the sides with occasional spares in there like spare plug and plug cap.
its amazing what you can hide away, the intention is to be able to store stuff up the front for dire emergencies to balance out the weight and space but the panels are a pig to get off or get behind - it is an emergency measure though so you shouldn't have to do it often. if I even get to ride one across america then I would have water pump kits under the foot mats along with pressure sensors, thermostats, shims etc..
a non abs bike you can stick a full tool kit in the pump space which is huge :-)
both under the seat and behind it there is loads of space once you get rid of the crappy sound kit :-)
I did anyway - load of room around my huge battery and behind the seat back.
battery box - pump, belt, bulbs.
seat void - 12v element for making hot drinks, chocolate and sugar. first aid kit, neat coolant, tyreweld, oil change kit. and so on :-)
some small single thread woodscrews and some repair glue work just as well.
there is a product called type plugger which uses a 'gun' to force a mushroom into the tyre and do the same thing but better as our kits. the idea behind the kits though is good even though it need some skill to get it working properly.
one the bike I carry a couple of cans of instant repair and a pump in the back box, plus the standard repair kit with screw in it. :-)
typical someone has nicked the crash elements, wiing mirrors and screen
there was some on ebay for about 15. similar to the ones I got you to buy a few years back.
the handle can just be pulled and the locking tab will spring, I've done this without breaking the tab. its probably dried out finally and the muck in there has siezed the lock. a soaking in spray oil should help sort it out
when it first came out that bmw were doing a scooter it was announced that it would be a rebadge of the kymco xiting like the f650 was.
when you look at both there are some differences like the rear shocks and some fairing but all I've really seen is 'artwork' probably they took the chassis and redid the outer works. otherwise its very close.
just like the c1 really.
the crash elements werent designed in the same way the nose cone was, if the whole panel was flexible and foam filled then I could believe it.
no way they were designed for anything other than a side drop. in germany the free track days they gave out included a standing side drop
not just me then, thats okay.
the xiting is only 5k or so if memory serves so the badge markup is a bit harsh.
there is no real absorb function, bmw messed it up as usual and threw a 99p solution at it. just like the stand links, headlight, top box lugs etc.. which only needed more thought what is the use of a proctective part which does nothing outside of a carpark.
its obvious when you look at the amount of fairing support that it was just designed to be pair of expensive curtains otherwise we would be able to add things like crash bobbins to help keep them going a tad longer.
at the end of the day you could stick an egg box on the side and it would offer the same protection there is no loss of function if you but a better solution on there.
did you check the flutter valve and throttle body? if crap has gotten into the air box then thats the next step along with the air temp sensor. the filter should still be allright if the fuel wasnt contaminated. if it was then you would have to flush out the lines and tank as well.
I should sell my spare ones then :-)
my links are cheaper than that
if the airbox was flooded then water can get into the top of the engine via the head cover breather pipe.
white smoke could be water boiling off the oil and getting out through the engine or just a flooded exhaust drying out. it is after all -lots degrees centigrade out there at the moment.
if the oil is mayonaissing though then it will block the oilways and filter so be carefull. you can try and flush the engine out with white spirit turning it over with the starter to get it around the engine then put some diesel engine oil in there to help clean it out until the next change or some very cheap supermarket oil for a few hundred miles
hesitation could be a dry piston or muck in the idle valve. its possible you put water in there if you didnt take the carb off and drain it out.
you should get away without having to strip it down but it might be worth dropping the oil and maybe taking the alternator casing off if its getting messy in the engine. I would say that the more you take it down the better it should recover.
personally I would take the exhaust, carb and airbox off at least and give a good clean, jack the middle of the bike up with the shocks undone and take the head cover off so you can wash the engine down and look for anything looking nasty in there. the variators probably need a look at as well.
in greece you should change it every two years at least, for the cost and age of the bikes I'd do it every year to be safe
you didnt say whether they stayed on after starting?
gungy starter as al says, oil gets into the workings and ends up ruining the brushes. the rapid clicking is usually the battery not giving enough starting amps a siezed starter usually just gives you a single dead click. it might be possible to clean it up but I use the term might.
not a long way distance wise but timewise it can be if the weather is against you.
plenty of basics wanting to upgrade
I did patch two together to make one good one. I'm not sure what is in the head to make the sensor but clashing with the ring ruins it. even when it doesnt seem that damaged.
you can try it.
didnt you re-ride the route to get it back?
it must have been missing the retaining screw
connectors get broken and that fits a few parts on the bike.
did you correct the spacer issue? from experience the sensor is now ruined but may prove usefull in future for the connector.
the for sale bit is a member thing. I reckon you should take no less than three for it as its a collectors item in that state and all tooled up. the problem is that the insurance value for a low mileage 11 year old bike would still only be 1800 max.
someone was trying for 4 for one a while back and bmw dealers were still asking 3.5 up untill a few years ago. somebody somewhere has the cash and is daft enough I reckon and I would stick to trying to sell it in london through bike trader or similar. you could put it on ebay as a private sale rather than an auction which would get it out there.
the things that will drag the value down are the fact that its still at least 10 years old regardless of the plate, zero warranty and bmw servicing costs being ridiculous. I assume it has had the first service and valve check as planned?
when you had the cmon did you reset your tuning?
the problem is that it takes an hour so they charge you for that. when I got mine done donkeys ago they charged me half an hour and that was 40 quid, but that was because they werent a bmw only place.
however that is why we do our own servicing, so the money saved can sort out this sort of thing.
jap and german know how to charge as well but does anyone know if they can update? someone said they have a computer.
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