I've removed several of these over the years, ( rounded hex )
Drive in a suitable size,reverse-pich, tight fitting easy-out, then fit an impact driver, a couple of heafty 'whacks' with a large copper mallet & she'll come!!
Replace with much harder stainless cap-heads & a film of copper-grease.
Simple rods & rose-joints would have been MUCH simpler & 100% reliable!!
Or 'AUDIO' on the main body !!
The 'acid-dips' you describe is VERY common, what happens is that the hard-chrome surface wears through in one spot, then the continuing belt passage erodes it more & more untill it 'craters'!
I HAVE re-surfaced several variator faces with success, ok, maybe it wont last as long, but hey, it'll have a new lease of life, wotcha got to lose???
Frankly, I never got to understand why they hard-chromed one side & not the other, since both sides experience the same torque/forces!!
Usually best to fit as a re-machined pair, unless of course, the variator side is perfect.
I have done many over the time I had my 12!!
If you wish to send to me, I may beable to sort something.
3 or so years ago, Jackie & I were out for a 'slow, easy' drive in our local countyside, went through a village which had ALWAYS been 40mph (on the A628, main RD)
The very next day a letter from the SS, sorry, police arrived informing me that I'd gone through a (hidden on a tripod, in the railings) speed camera & that the limit was now 30mph!!
I sent them a letter congratulating them on their efficienty of their fund-collecting dept & that I didn't believe them ( I was going slow I thought at 36 in a 40mph) & that I demanded photgraphic proof.
A couple of days later a beutiful colour pic of us & our car with 36mph printed at the bottom was delivered !! Ho-hum,
I duly sent off the fine with a note, again with congratulations & expressing my dismay at the fact that the SS, sorry, police never even bothered to come to see me when one of the cars was broken into, but somehow exelled over & above their call of duty at catching us 'evil' speedsters!!
There, thats made me feel a little better, rant over!
It WILL work ( I know as i've done it several times ) but not properly, its obviously programed & optimized for the 176 unit, it will probably have a slightly different ign firing timing, dwell & temp sensor settings etc.
The stupid thing is, one I had would work on one 176 machine (sort of) but not at all on another!!
If you get a chance to fit the correct unit, you should definetly notice a difference.
Well, I popped down to the 'Bikersafe' show at Sheffied arena this morning, had a gander at all the stuff, bought nothing for a change!!
Saw the new 'concept' C1, & the BMW guys told me that this was the first UK showing, don't know about that, but it looked well 'shown'!!
They seem to have kept the general layout, but its now electric (looks like a brushless motor) the laminated glass screen has gone, now a plexiglass with no wiper, (bugs in the summer spring to mind)!
The crash-eliments seem just as, if not more flimsey, brake cyls & switch-gear appear the same, no centre stand, but now has a side stand, the front 'beak' is very hard plastic, not at all like the originals softy-bendy, poly-prop unit.
Although the bodywork is of the new, angular design, it looks just as awkward & delicate as the originals, (& expensive)?
Rear mudguard looks the same, dash area is now 'open', good to gain access, but looks unfinished & a bit 'messy.
I think I DO like it, however, the BMW man said they had no intention of it going into production, if it did, one or two 'tweaks' would make a nice upgraded machine & if they got their act together, it may well be a good seller.
I did the same as Dave, 3 or 4 turns of electrical tape around both brake levers did it for me!!
>Would you suggest doing this with the bottom cam free of being bolted up to the frame?
No, its really easier with everything in place, if youre having trouble its 'cos youre doing it wrong!! Honestly, once you've cracked it, you'll wonder what all the fuss was about!
Remember, you have to 'jiggle' the lever & stand together to allow the free cable to come right out & pop into the cam.
As for the barlock, I might have one kicking around somewhere, i'll have a looksee.
Its a doddle to do, but you must get the 'order' right!
I've done loads, & NEVER had any problems. I've been 'without' a C1 for over a year now, so I may get it a bit wrong, but I can assure you its very easy!
Arrange the LEFT side of the bike to be about 2-3ft from a wall, place a brick behind the back wheel & another in front of the front wheel, the stand must be 'up', then lay the bike against the wall using some padding between the top hoop & the wall to prevend damage.
With the bike in this position, its dead easy to access the 'gubbins' undrneath!
First, ensure both cables a fully located into their respective ferule-housings at the lever-end, fit ONE nipple into the cam & back the locknut up as far as possible, place the remaining nipple into the cam, REMOVE the locknut & allow it to drop off the thread, (you cant loose it as its smaller than the nipple) Now for the good bit, lift or lower the handle & watch the cam move, of course, it will either go up or down, so, if the handle it moved up & down at the same time as the stand is lifted & lowered, the cam will get into an easy-fit position.
Not explained too well, but you get the idea.
Incidently, if the bike is set up 'normally' on its stand, I don't think I could ever fit the cables at all, it has to be layed over enough to get under!!
Are the tyres the same size as originals, i.e. sidewall ratio, as even a slight diameter difference, or low-pressure on one will affect the rolling footprint thus triggering the ABS due to it detecting the difference between the front/back.
I had this once, found nothing, pumped up the back tyre, problem solved!!
>wonder how an impact driver would fare?
Would be fine I guess, but the main problem still exists, we must prevent the internal hex from 'bursting', buy backing up the hex-bore at the top with the extra nut.
If its the 'studs' that sit on top of the top alloy fork-yolk, you are talking about, then yes, they DO come out as a complete top-plug that drops down the tube & is held in place with an internal circlip.
Too late now, but a nut placed at the top whilst undoing with the allan-key will prevent the top from bursting.
They can be a bit tight to remove as there is an 'O' ring fitted as well, run oil around will help to re-fit.
>My camshaft could be reclaimed by cutting a keyway in the gear and filing a piece of key steel to suit
Wayhay!! My kinda guy! I thought of doing exactly that a few years ago, that 'punched-out' key is awful, trouble is, I couldn't think of a way of keeping the key reliably in place on such a pathetic pressed chainwheel! A large washer perhaps ??
You must remember to keep the camchain 'pulling' direction i.e. front of engine side, tight as you set the camwheels/shafts, & only then apply the tensioner.
Once done, carefully turn the engine over in its normal running direction via the crank-nut, & observe the timing marks come back into alignment, (remember it will take 2 revolutions) by doing this, you will ensure correct valve timing!!
I don't think that the protesters were so much complaining about the fuel price, we all know that its inevitable, but more likely protesting about our dictatorships habit of 'sneaking-in' the odd 'stealth-tax' on fuel duty!!
After all, us 'poor, easy-touch' road users have to pay for the polititians 2nd homes etc. & our American rulers wars abroad don't we!!
I don't care if i'm flamed either, thats my opinion, surely i'm entitled to that!! :-)
>Think I've got one down the shed...
Ok, send it me & I'll see what I can do!!
If someone wants to send me an old, busted cap, I'll have a looksee as to knocking some up for the C1ub, not promising mind, it may be too complicated for me!!
No harm in looking though.
Although retired, my pal Terry delivers quad-bikes all over the country for the sole importers in Leeds.
In 2002, they were asked by their far-eastern suppliers if they wanted to import their electric scooters, but since they only dealt in quads, they said no!! But the suppliers were persistant & asked if they'd like a sample, so a brand-new example duly turned up, no-one was interested or took much notice of this machine, but Chris, one of the directors went to & fro for a few weeks & clocked up just 200 miles.
It was then shoved in a corner & forgotten about, until it was 'found' just befor Chrismas 2009!!
Needless to say, it was totally dead, & they asked me if I'd like to take a look at it, well, as you know, I love this sort of crap, so I said ok, next day it was delivered to my place, straight up to the top garage & duly stripped down!!
8 years of flat-battery storage had taken its toll, I priced up 4 new units @ £6-£800 ouch!!
Anyroadup, suffice to say, its all functioning perfeck now!!
Saw Chris later & he asked if I wanted it, so a deal was struck & I now own an electric scoot, WHY???? I don't want the bloody thing!!
BUT, & it might be a big but, they never did import these things, nor did any one else, not to my knowlege anyway, I can find no reference to them on the web, only in the states, so its just possible I have the ONLY one in the UK!! Its an E-TON 48v, 26ah 2250w brushless motor.
Nice little thing actually, only 200 miles from new in 8 years!!
Thanks peeps for the re-welcome!
As for the : - so does this mean your are open for visits again then? Of course, you've always been welcome for a visit Dave, anyone else for that matter.
I missed the banter, & felt a bit out of it due to not having any C1's, but I suppose I can still stick 'my oar-in' now & again!!
Hi peeps, been away from the c1ub for a while, been a bit 'iffy' health wise, & not been able to 'do stuff', plus the fact that I have no C1s or bits left to play with!!!
Had a 'look-in' now & again, just to be nosey, & see what you guys have been up to!! Got a few interesting storeys to tell sometime if anyones interested!
I used to see the odd C1 around these parts, but none at all recently, so I wonder where they hide out nowadays.
Just after I got rid of all my C1s & stuff, I also gave away the big bike-table lift, & then as usual, I needed one a few weeks later, so I struggled on the floor!!
Sorry if I upset one or two by not keeping in touch, but this bad patch sorta knocked the stuffing out of me & made me a bit anti-social, (thats my excuse & i'm sticking to it)
I converted all of my C1s to a twin race setup (4 bearings) & had no trouble since!! 2 bearings each side = 4 times the load!!
A reflection on Britain:.............dont read if you find the truth hard to take.
1. Teaching Maths In 1970
A logger sells a truckload of timber for £100.
His cost of production is 4/5 of the price.
What is his profit?
2. Teaching Maths In 1980
A logger sells a truckload of timber for £100.
His cost of production is 80% of the price.
What is his profit?
3. Teaching Maths In 1990
A logger sells a truckload of timber for £100.
His cost of production is £80.
How much was his profit?
4. Teaching Maths In 2000
A logger sells a truckload of timber for £100.
His cost of production is £80 and his profit is £20.
Your assignment: Underline the number 20.
5. Teaching Maths In 2005
A logger cuts down a beautiful forest because he is selfish and inconsiderate and cares nothing for the habit of animals or the Preservation of our woodlands. Your assignment: Discuss how the birds and squirrels might feel as the logger cut down their homes just for a measly profit of £20.
6. Teaching Maths In 2009
A logger is arrested for trying to cut down a tree in case it may be offensive to Muslims or other religious groups not consulted in the felling licence. He is also fined a £100 as his Chainsaw is 2.0in in breach of Health and Safety legislation as it deemed too dangerous and could cut something. He has used the Chainsaw for over 20 years without incident, however he does not have the correct certificate of competence and is therefore considered to be a recidivist and habitual criminal.
His DNA is sampled and his details circulated throughout all government agencies. He protests and is taken to court and fined another £100 because he is such an easy target. When he is released he returns to find Gypsies have cut down half his wood to build a camp on his land. He tries to throw them off but is arrested, prosecuted for harassing an ethnic minority, imprisoned and fined a further £100. While he is in jail the Gypsies cut down the rest of his wood and sell it on the black market for £100 cash.
They also have a leaving BBQ of squirrel and pheasant and depart leaving behind several tonnes of rubbish and asbestos sheeting. The forester on release is warned that failure to clear the fly tipped rubbish immediately at his own cost is an offence. He complains and is arrested for environmental pollution, breach of the peace and invoiced £12,000 plus VAT for safe disposal costs by a regulated government contractor. Your assignment: How many times is the logger going to have to be arrested and fined before he realises that he is never going to make £20 profit by hard work, give up, sign onto the dole and live off the state
for the rest of his life?
7. Teaching Maths In 2010
A logger doesn’t sell a lorry load of timber because he can’t get a loan to buy a new lorry because his bank has spent all his and their money on a derivative of securitised debt related to sub- prime mortgages in Alabama and lost the lot with only some government money left to pay a few million pound bonuses to their senior directors and the traders who made the biggest losses.
The logger struggles to pay the £1,200 road tax on his old lorry however, as it was built in the 1970s it no longer meets the emissions regulations and he is forced to scrap it. Some Bulgarian loggers buy the lorry from the scrap merchant and put it back on the road. They undercut everyone on price for haulage and send their cash back home, while claiming unemployment for themselves and their relatives. If questioned they speak no English and it is easier to deport them at the governments expense. Following their holiday back home they return to the UK with different names and fresh girls and start again. The logger protests, is accused of being a bigoted racist and as his name is on the side of his old lorry he is forced to pay £1,500 registration fees as a gang master.
The Government borrows more money to pay more to the bankers as bonuses are not cheap. The parliamentarians feel they are missing out and claim the difference on expenses and allowances.
You do the maths.
I just re-read your post, properly this time, I assumed you already HAD one of these!!
Anyway, the same applies, ALWAYS earth (ground) any radio etc. as this helps to suppress interference, & try & route wiring & aerials away from other power assys.
Try 'earthing' the radio-mount (metal bracket) to a frame-part, as I noticed that the aerial wire is just that, a single, non screened wire. 'Normal' aerial wire has an earthed (grounded) copper sheath to shield the receiver from interference.
I have also noted that these titchy units are a bit critical on tuning, a tad either way & its awful, shame really as a self-seek & tune circuit could easily be incorporated for pennies!!
It may simply need to get past the 'cold-start' stage, to prove this do as follows: seat belts plugged in, stand up & folded away, trolley jack under the rear cross member to allow rear wheel to be 1 or 2 inches off the floor, stand on right side of machine, right hand holding on to the throttle & apply front brake, left hand holding the shoulder-bar, start engine & immediately open her up, the rear wheel will be rotating, wind the throttle up to max, the limiter will cut in & the engine will start to 'hunt', back off the throttle to about 3/4 revs & hold it there for 5 mins or so. By doing this, you will be getting oil, coolant & engine quickly up to operating temp & into 'normal' running mode, if it dosn't & still cuts out, then I would look at fuel delivery, pump, regulator or idle control valve, its a 'start' anyway, ( no pun intended)! :-)
>any chance of the ebay listing description / item number for a dunce like me to find one easily?!?!
Try this: e-bay item No. 370184299346
No, no C1's or any other bikes, but over the years I have made cars, helicopters, aircraft, & a steam engine, but the boats I manufacture, & it takes on average a year or so, from design, cad, cnc etc. then all the metal castings masters have to be hand made, from which I make molds, through to casting the many thousands of components!!
Also, something such as the C1 would take me a huge amount of time to design/develop & would at most, sell only a few!! We estimate around 70 to a 100 sales before any kit becomes profitable.
Having said that, most new kits have back orders of 50 or so as soon as its released!!
Then on top of all that, & after much money & time, it may flop, resulting in duff sales, its a calculated gamble, some sell more then others!!
I wish I still had some c1s!!
This little bubba will be great in the C1 somewhere, its a titchy little thing, & will fit just about anywhere, dash, roof, you name it, specially made for bikes, only about £18.00 or so from e-bay, (china)
ordered it last Sunday, it came today!! 5 whole minutes to hook it up & it works fine, AM/FM/clock & illuminated as well,also has earphone & ipod input under the front waterproof plug,PLUS audio-out plugs!! 2 x 3w output but loud enough on the bike. Sounds slightly 'tinny' but I have a couple of pairs of Hein-Gerrike's in the garage, might give them a tryout later!!
>nice to see you holding it with both hands - so must have recovered pretty well from the recent op.
Yep, its coming on fine, 1st day home, no movement AT ALL & much pain, then I had loads of jobs to do that had been waiting the best part of a year, so I started a bit of 'pushin & shuvin', & it began to 'work' itself off, the pain got less & the mobility got more!!
Every single night at around 0230-0400 for nearly a year I was up 'cos of the pain, & popping painkillers like smarties, not so now, but still on anti-infams.
Already I can lift my arm high forwards & back a bit, but going outwards & high is difficult & painful, but, hey, we're getting there!!
Best part of a years work, nearly there, we went to the launch of the real one in Whitby last year.
Should be in production in a couple of months.
>We don't have a moat but a gert big pond by t' back door.
You see, if you was an MP, you could have 'claimed' for that!! :)
Don't worry, 'Angry of Swindon' I don't have a mortgage, would like a second home & a moat etc. So I think I'll become become an MP!! :-)
If not the above, then check the battery connections.
People, I/we are humbled, a lovely box of flowers were delivered to my home today, for my dear old mum, who from?? The C1 Club no less, Jackie & I were gobsmacked to say the least, wonderful sentiments from wonderful people, thank you all, we are deeply touched.
Yes, its a very small gearbox, its built-in behind the rear clutch-drum, inside the alloy 'boss' behind the rear wheel.
Remove the nylon hex plug on the rear of the casing, this opening is the filler AND the level, simply fill until excess runs out, stops flowing, then replace the plug, job done!!
Thank guys, your kind words are much appreciated, what a great bunch you all are.
Well it had to happen, my old mum has just passed away at the ripe old age of 91, but the last couple of years haven't been good for her, seized up all over, rigid with pain, just sitting there, doing nothing all day, but she was 100% sharp as a knife, she got worse over the last few weeks, had a fall at home & dear old pop, who's also mid 90's couldn't get her up, & when we got there, there was 4 nurses & 2 paramedics as well.
So its for the best, no more pain, we've got to look out for the old fella now, he was a prisoner of war in Japan & everyone thought he'd be the first to go, hes an old 'toughie', it just shows to go ya.
>Are we literally talking about hammering the torx bit in there...?
Yes, don't worry, you wont damage the head, your biggest problem is access, 'cos me being me, I always used to drop the engine anyway, once its jacked up & made secure, you're looking at 30 mins or so to get it out, but I have the luxury of a bike lift-table & all the other stuff required.
Easy-outs, (bolt extractors) are very good, but possibly not for these, because these bolts have a shallow recess, & can hit the bottom of the hole before it 'grips' the sides.
I have had 100% success by 'hammering-in' the next size up torx bit into the damaged hole, hold with pliers etc. & give it a good hard 'whack, so it will stay in by itself, then, place a ring spanner over the bit, push the end with your thumb whilst turning & it WILL undo!!
A partially blocked oilway will greatly affect the engines oil-pressure, a bit of old gasket, or sealant being the usual culprits for instance.
Other than that, I would check the pressure-relief valve on top of the engine, under the large hex cap, this is initially spring-loaded, & also engine-oil hydraulically operated, if the spring is weak, or the piston/bore is worn, then it will not resist the pressure & 'lift' too early, thus reducing oil-pressure, remember, this is the only thing, apart from oil pump & big-end that controls the oil-pressure.
Duff valve = no pressure, it will simply be by-passed back to the sump.
Woke up 2/12 hours later, felt absolutely fantastic, not a hint of pain, chatting to the other 'inmates', thinking to myself, 'this is great, no problems with this at all'!!
Then at 0230 I felt a 'twinge', 0235, it hurt, 0240 ouch, 0250 AAAAARRRRGGGHHH!!
Shouting & hollering that much, that I went into some sort of shock, cold & sweaty, hard, fast breathing etc. blood pressure down to 90!! they came & stabbed with morphine!! but it STILL hurt like feck.
Some sort of normality by 10.00, & by 1300, they sent me home!!
Arm like a tree-trunk, fingers like sausages, could'nt move at all, solid, just 'twiddle' the sausages!
Then Jackie found this on youtube, this is what I had, if i'd seen this first, there'res NO WAY I'd have gone in!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZwUkGbuLYU
Anyroadup, this morning, swelling just about gone, pain GREATLY reduced, & already have some sort of movement, so wer're getting there!!
Well I finally had the MRI (in the time-tunnel) scan last week & they've called me in for an operation tomorrow (Fri) so, if i'm still around from Sat onwards, then it will have been some sort of success, if not, then its been nice knowing you all!!
I've been pretty well useless for nearly a year after pulling the big trailer on the drive & did a lot of shoulder/tendon damage, so watch this space!!
Pics a little 'fuzzy' but I assume its the 20mm or so dia rubber hose, if it is, then its a water-coolant hose, & it would definitely cause you grief! :-(
Also, are you sure you did'nt over-fill the engine? Correct way is to check level by simply lowering the dipstick into the hole, do NOT screw it down to check, or it will be over-filled, causing a lot of damage.
If possible, re-connect the hose ( unless its broke) have coolant in a pouring-jug ready, pull off front cover, remove filler cap (on RIGHT side of bike) start, if possible, if it DOES start, then start filling the system WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING, this will 'flow' it around the entire system without any pressure & allow trapped air to vent via the open filler, again, if it does run, leave it ticking over for 10-20 mins, then replace any reduced coolant, followed by the cap, allow a few mins to 'pressure-up' then go round & check for any leaks, smoke, blood, sweat, tears etc.etc.
>Does anyone know if anything else should be where I've shown the arrow? Or is it just the washer then the bolt that holds this on?
Correct, all there is, is a bolt & a machined-washer, ( do NOT use an 'ordinary' washer) the drums tightness is dependent on the taper & key, a 'standard' method of holding rotating parts.
When fitting these parts, align keyway to slot, place drum onto shaft, push right up as far as you can, then give the drum a sharp whack with a copper-mallet then fit & tighten the bolt & washer.
The same goes for removal, remove bolt & washer, fit extractor-bolt or large sump-plug, do up reasonably tight, then all you do id to whack the bolt or plug whilst at the same time 'pulling' on the drum, it will fly off!!!
Threadlock will help on the bolt when replacing.
Bionic-man, clockwork-man, PAH, the way I am at the moment, the word 'rubber-band' man springs to mind. :-(
I can't get any jobs done & there's tons of stuff awaiting doing, & I only hope that this problem gets sorted soon 'cos everything's a real chore at the moment & 'stuff' is falling apart all around me.
I go with Steff, sounds to me like a dry final-drive gearbox, jack up the rear, remove wheel, take off the variator-case, then the belt & clutch-drum, where you will see the gearbox cover-plate, take this off with the input shaft & I would expect to see mangled/worn/seized/welded/manky/dry stuff :-(
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