Hi Aware, remember that crash tests were done with BMW C1 prototypes. The crash elements might be slightly different to the final version :)
The last time I dropped my bike (360 spin on snow at 2 MPH :( ), the crash element popped off so the left shoulder side fairing was damaged. The bumper was in good condition before the crash so I was very upset it broke so easily. I believe that these parts are too fragile now, BMW crash elements were better quality in 2003. I remember at that time I dropped my bike a couple of time while parking (hugh...) without having to replace the crash element.
If the crash element is made of rubber, then it should be able to absorb shocks. If it does not pop off during the crash, then it is the assurance that the driver's head won't hit the road (I ride helmetless :) ).
At the moment we are trying to collect orders for a batch of 50 parts. That would be great if the C1ub could invest into a few of them. In Paris I see a lot of C1 that are ridden "titless", and that are in very bad condition. We have to understand that such a configuration (no or damaged bumpers) involves very bad fairing damages (side & shoulder fairing) if the bike is dropped. The genuine BMW crash elements are not strong enough to prevent such fairing damages, which is a major design failure :(
Yesterdayday I got a picture of an early prototype. The final version will look better, with a shiny or dull finishing.http://www.casimages.com/img.***?i=090920104134720824491720.jpg
(replace *** by "p h p")
A french C1 fellow found a local manufacturer able to produce a flexible crash element bumper much less fragile than the original one.
The bumper is made entirely of black rubber molded out of the original.
The connectors are molded into the rubber and much more robust than the genuine part.
The actual problem is that the price depends on the number of units to be produced per batch.
A pair of bumpers costs 105 € for a series of 50 pairs, 90 € for 100 pairs.
Keeping in mind that a pair of BMW genuine bumpers costs around 135 €, I think it might be worth the investment. I already committed for 2 pairs ! :)
On the French forum we already have 20 pairs reserved, for more details (in French) you can follow this link: http://forum.bmwc1.free.fr/viewtopic.***?f=4&t=1969&p=13863#p13863
(replace *** by p h p)
Who would be interested in this product?
I like the picture of the old French car, remind me my childhood :)
Another idea : Did you check the O-ring ?
I read that when the injection valve o-ring is not sealed correctly it can cause all sort of surging / stalling problems...
Cable operation and wear can cause problems with time... At this stage I believe you need to check any option :)
Anyway, this is an easy check....
1) Can you reset the fault 110 with your C'mon ?
If this fault remains after reset, this could be due to a fried output on the ECU... I've got an ECU at home that have both throttle and intake I/O stage burnt....
Maybe it would be worth swaping the ECUs...
2) Sorry to insist, but did you check that the throttle cable is well adjusted ?
Here is a extract of BMW instructions when resetting adaptation values:
"It is absolutely essential to adjust the throttle cable correctly so that the BMS Compact control unit
can correctly relearn the adaptation value for throttle valve zero position after resetting.
For this purpose, make sure that the throttle valve rests on the mechanical stop (in the idle position)
with the handlebar turned (left and right)."
I'm not that surprised that both bikes don't run smoothly. You said you reset the valve adaptation values after the swap (and that a correct operation) with your C'MON. In that case the ECU needs to re-learn the new probes, I don't know how long it takes, but in that case maybe you need to test drive the bike a few kilometers to help in that process. In my opinion that would explain the combustion problem. By the way you did not answer my last question, what is your ECU versions ? :)
Please PM me, I will send you my personal address for you to post the ECU. Please be aware this is done at your own risk, I will take no responsability if the ECU is lost or for any issues you would encounter with that operation :)
Yes it is the latest. I had the same stalling problems with one of my C1, it was coded with v7000. I upgraded it to v8000 and now it runs like a charm.
I could implement the upgrade feature into the MT1 if I could break the ECU security protections... Not impossible, but not obvious as well... I have other priorities at the moment. :)
Check the ECU versions, I can reprogram it for you to v8000
Do you have the same ECU software version on both bikes ?
The v8000 is known to better handle stalling / idle problems.
If versions are different, you could try to swap the ECUs as well :)
I complety misunderstood this thread, sorry :(
Look into the service manual, chapter "32 72 305 Replacing throttle cable", page 259.
There's a picture showing a fasterner/rubber cab that allows to adjust the cable length.
To set correct cable length :
- move the throttle handle all the way from minimum to maximum and ensure you hear the throttle valve 'clicking' on both ends.
- move the handlebars all the way from left to right and ensure that throttle valve does not move
I hope it'll help.
I'm not sure but maybe you need to trim the cable tension after replacing it ?
looks like your original idea went around Europe as I got the info on a German forum :) Well done!!!
I Already have 5 units ready for shiping and another batch of 10 is almost finished !
this could be a futur option for former bikes like the C1. :)
I'm proposing a special C1 Basic version at 300€ to support the community :)
I'm proud to present my new diagnostic tool, "Motorrad Tester
One" (MT1). It is an evolution of the C'mon that is meant to support all
The MT1 have the following features:
- Autonomous operations, no need for a computer, batteries or smartphone, just plug it into diagnostic socket!
- Read VIN and Autodetect the motorbike
- Display motorbike infos (VIN, software, factory date, ...)
- Display engine parameters ( temperature, speed, rpm, ...)
- Test Functions (abs, switches, oil & abs lights, probes and sensors) -
- Service Toolbox : purge abs, reset probes adaptation parameters)
- Service log : log faults, changed parts and fixes.
The tool provide an intuitive user interface through its color graphical
touchscreen. Currently it is able to support 5 different language :
English, German, French, Italian and Spanish.
The tool will be proposed with 4 different software versions :
- BASIC : Manage up to 3 motorbikes for two different variants (ex: G650
- ENTHOUSIAST : Manage up to 10 motorbikes for two different BMW series
(ex: C-Serie + K-Serie)
- CLUB : Manage any motorbikes for two BMW series (ex: R-Serie +
- PRO : Manage any motorbikes for any BMW series
Current bike support is BMW C1, F650CS, F650GS, G650X. Support will be
developped soon for K1200, R1200.
Some of the features above are still under developpement and will be
available by the end of this year through firmware update. Firmware
upgrade is very easy, plug the tool to any PC through its mini-usb
socket, it will be recognized as a USB thumb key. Then drag and drop the
firmware file and you're done!
You'll find below a picture of the tool and some screenshots.
I advice you to reset tuning parameters with the C'mon if you don't find any fault.
Did you disconnect the battery when you removed the dashboard ? If so this could have reset the ECU so you might need to swing 3 times the throttle handle and let the engine idle for 15 minutes. Failure to do so might leave your ECU with unadapted parameters.
You could try to reset probes adaptation values using the C'mon tool. By the way, upgrading ECU software to last version (8000) solved idling issues for me.
Congratulation for sorting this out
I'm happy things are turning out better for you. I wish you a prompt recovery. :)
I don't know if there a Club C'mon around and available for you. It would be worthy to start a diagnostic.
Reminds me the charging issue I had a while ago. Check battery voltage when engine is running, it should be above 13.5 V. If not, check alternator wires or volaatge regulator.
It is resetting all the adaptation parameters for engine probes and sensors. This is usefull regarding the fact they operate differently when the got worn. By the way, your software version is the latest and your C1 one of the very last produced ;)
There's not much instructions regarding tuning into current documentation. You just need to browse to one of the 3 tuning options and press OK then wait a few seconds. The engine must be off during tuning. I believe that for old firmware version there might be some compatibility issues, that's why I would be interested by these infos.
What is your C1 model and ECU version ? I wonder why you can't make it work...
Try to hook up a diagnostic tool (either C'mon or GS911) to find out where the fault comes from, maybe it is not caused by a sensor failure.
The dealer will need a C1 or F650 in its workshop so he can swap ECUs and upgrade its firmware.
Lawrie is right, connection & upgrade is done through the connector behind the seat-back.
I know that has I could play with a Moditec for 1 hour a few weeks ago :)
Regarding these research, maybe I'll be able later to provide a tool that would allow such an upgrade ;)
I think this is due to you resetting adaptation tuning, that force ECU to relearn all from captors and engine parameters. So I believe the improvment is for real :)
Hi, sorry if I missed that question :(
Andrew, I would suggest you fully charge you battery, switch off headlamp light and try again. Sometime, flat batteries can cause engine tuning to fail.
The C'mon unit you're using has a former firmware version. You should consider upgrading it to latest.
Regarding engine tuning, it has to be done engine off. The ignition has to be turned on for the C'mon to communication with the ECU
Of course it does :)
You just have to browse into "ECU Diagnostic->ECU Info->SW Version" menus.
Today I change to ECU software version 8000, it solves my startiong and idle problems. My former version was 7200. If you know a BMW garage that owns a ModiTec this could be worth the price.
It seems abvious to me that C'mon device can't connect to your ABS. This can be due to three reasons:
1) ABS unit malfunctions
2) ABS unit ok but not on diagnostic bus
3) ABS unit fuse blown
I would bet on the option 3. Could you check and try again ?
C'mon can be used with engine on, except engine tuning that as to be done with engine off, except it would fail. Some functions are not advised while riding has they could affect security like ABS test and fault reading (two German guys are actually using C'mon while riding, they permanently fit it onto the dashboard).
I've done a bunch of tests to insure this would not be an issue, but please dont do this at home :*)
Thank you for this detailed feedback, I'll keep in mind your advices and suggestion :)
Here are my thoughts regarding the faults that were detected:
1. Idle regulator, this fault occurs 2x since you got the C1 and is not currently pending (in this case you would get "P S -" code). so I believe this is not a big issue. You should remove the regulator, try to clean it, put it back, reset the fault and check if it comes again.
2. The throttle valve's fault came after you tune engine parameters. Basically when you tune throttle valve parameters, I believe that the ECU operate its "servo" to find out the min and max values that can be read on its potentiometer and maybe check also if there are inconsistencies into read values the way round. If I were you I would reset ECU faults (this one is actually stored) and try to re-run throttle valve tuning, if the fault occurs again then you could have an issue with throttle valve block. Just in case you could try to clean the throttle valve internals but I'm not sure how this can be done. Advice from our mechanics gurus is welcome.
So you should try to reset and double check any fault that occurs to make sure it is permanent.
Regarding the other tuning functions they are meant to learn and adapt ECU in reading its sensors values (throttle, lambda and idle). Resetting all tuning parameters allows to reset and trim all three adaptation parameters.
I hope this answer you questions
Have you tried to cleanup the idle regulator ?
Hey, I thought 2 units were enough for the C1ub ! In france we usually say there no 2 without a 3 following :)
Can we have some more information on this ? How does it looks like comparing to our C1, etc...
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