So how this smart stand weak link replacement is doing ?
I'm looking forward to do my own, except if you propose your own kit :)
Correct Peter. I'm waiting for a replacement regulator. :)
Will do, thanks for the advice.
Important notice: To access the regulator, Mr BMW says it's easier to first dismount the seat and then remove rear right panel... sure but you'll loose half an hour trying to figure out how to mount the seat back!!!
Many thanks Phil! :)
Strip down my C1 this evening:
- checked alternator wire for ground shortcut : NONE
- ohmed out any combination of alternator wire peers for continuity : OK
- checked ground and +12V signals routing from regulator to battery: OK
- cleaned and WD40 plugs connection
- fired up engine : Voltage = 12,2V
- switch lights on : Voltage 12,2V -> looks good :)
It seems that this issue is solved.
New C1, new problems :)
On my way home, tacho start swinging and ABS indicators blinked !
C'mon found fault "Over-/ Undervoltage in driving circuit" so it's a battery problem.
1) Fireup engine and check battery voltage : 11,6V (should be about 14V)
2) Stop engine, check again : 11,6V
=> No battery charging
Checked alternator wires : OK
I assume it could be a bad connection on alternator plug or voltage regulator, but have no time at the moment to investigate further.
Any idea ?
I've got no maintenance booklet :(
Do I have to order a complete set ?
Hi, I want to duplicate my C1 starter key. I believe I need a key code so BMW can order a new set but could'nt find any in my registration forms.
Anyone now where I can find that ?
Oops, 2008 not 2007. So three days ago :)
All happened so fast, I didn't even had the time to think to avoid the car. In the meantime I must say I felt amazingly safe inside the C1.
When: 23/07/2008 19:00
Where: Paris, Outer loop belt (Peripherique Freeway)
What: A car pull left to change it's line and hit my C1 on the right side. I immediately countersteer so I could get back in line and stop safely.
Damage: Right fairing on both front and rear panels, right turn signal, exhaust shield, dashboard right corner
Driver told me she did not see me :(
Fortunately my faithfull second C1 will carry on with my daily commuting while the unlucky one will get repaired :)
Thanks for this C1 guts horrorshow :) Very interesting
I'm not a specialist but I believe as far as you did not damage the very end of the tensioner this shouldn't be a problem... However I'm affraid you have to get the plastic bit out of your engine...
Here is my vote :)
That's a 15 amp fuse that is located in a black plastic box behind backrest seat.
I fully understand you first reaction and I'm sorry for that bad experience.
Last week I just blow my own C1's fuse with the same issue, although this was with the first prototype unit and while investicating I found that jack ground core was loose and could shortcut with other signals inside plastic cap. This caused shortcut between GND to +12V!
This is not a conception issue but rather a problem with female stereo jack plug quality, so I decided to look for an alternative and find AMP superseal that have 3 separate signals.
This issue CAN'T arm the ECU as the only signal that directly goes to it is KBUS chanel and by design it is meant to be connected to GROUND or +12V for communication. You could shortcut any signals of diagnostic plug without any problem for the ECU, except blowing a fuse on your C1. I know that as while I was doing research around C'mon tool I blew a few one :)
I hope this will make this issue clear, questions or comments are welcome.
It looks like there was a short circuit into C'mon jack plugs. You have to check that jacks plugs are firmly connected before plugin C'mon.
This issue has been fixed in current C'mon batch as I replaced jack plugs with AMP superseal plugs : http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/TE/bin/TE.Connect?C=10876&F=0&M=CINF&GIID=956&LG=1&I=13
If anyone wants to have a set of male/female plugs, PM me. I can also replace jack plugs for you if necessary.
Price for a set of replacement plugd (1M+2F) is 10EUR excluding shipping.
I believe it use a very standard serial EEPROM (SMT package) of less than 1ko. It can be unsoldered and swaped into another speedo unit. You can also use a top compnent adapter to dump it with a serial eeprom programer and copy its content into other unit's eeprom. Well this is theory!
This is not the last version, I PM you v1.13. Please let me know if this solve the issue as I could'nt reproduce it.
What firmware version & date does C'mon displays at startup ?
Brilliant as always larry :)
thank you for this detailed feedback. Maybe your version of ECU software doesnt handle throttle tuning, both of my two 125 Exec C1s does (they are in "8000" version...)
I will be riding on sunday with 8 other C1ers around Paris southern suburb, maybe a great occasion to test if they're a compatibility issue on this.
if engine is on, it takes for ever.
If engine is off it should takes about 5 seconds and then you hear the "ignition on" sound.
Engine tuning has to be performed while engine is off, so your issue is normal :)
OK, I think this is normal you were stuck with "expert" menus :)
To test ECU and ABS faults you could have tried to remove a plug under the seat.
Could you test body electrics and ABS ?
Please tell me which menus so I could enhance existing documentation :)
I feel very sorry for you. It seems that people are getting mad when sun and heat are back in early summer. I'm very carefull during this weeks as "dry season" bikers are putting out their big flashy bikes and start speeding over Paris highway.
I hope you'll have a fast recovery. What about the bike ?
Hi Lawrie, I feel very sorry for you, I really understand what it means to loose your own works :(
oh I see
You're playing with words :)
Dave might bring C'mon diagnostic tool with him, it proofs to work on F650 bikes :)
I think you should had a permanently mounted C'mon on right side :)
I do have a bike lift, but I was to lazy to dismount the front panel, so after struggling for two hours, I finally did it and everything goes well :)
Wow, impressive. This weekend I pissed myself off fixing my C1's stand, it took me almost 3 hours and I had to remove a panel to unscrew the mecanism (this is the first version , very difficult to access). Congratulation :)
Did a video featuring new C'mon diagnostic tool software :)
For sure you'll be delighted by my bl***y French accent and my almost perfect English ;)C'mon demo.avi
I agree, the problem is that even C1 Workshop manual doesn't have a clear diagram of those clips placing.
Today I checked coolant pipes on my brand new C1 (4600Km) and figured out that a "Mickey Mouse" (as LAwrie would say) did a big mess with them, in fact it was previously serviced in a BMW car garage :(
Most ties where misplaced and pipes where hapilly rubbing around the engine, this obvioulsy could lead to puncture and big troubles...
It took me one hour to check and fix that! So I advise you to have a glance in case you don't have the full servicing history of your beloved C1 :)
This is a 128 byte Serial EEPROM, similar to the one I use in C'mon. I believe it can be read and write without beeing desoldered from its board. I could be able to get a counter and play with that but have no time yet as I've got a C'mon batch to finish. I'm bit overloaded at the moment.
Btw, a small box with an "on top IC adapter" could be easily made to reprogram it but it's still SciFi :)
couldn't find any electronic part for that :(
I didn't even know it actually exists :)
I wonder how the HUD screen works
I think I will order you a pair for my old C1. Can I paypal you ?
You're right, the switch has a weak contact, tried to WD40 it with no much success so I got to replace it.
Thanks to my C'mon diagnostic tool I could detect this fault :)
I appreciate your kind offer, but I'd rather use genuine BMW parts as this C1 is like new. By the way I truly believe your workaround is a very smart one.
I think I'll manage to get a new or used one quickly at a reasonable price, I manage to network a few people around Paris :)
Just figured out my unused C1 has brake light issue. Brake light flash when I press left brake handle but not when I press right brake :(
here are the checks I already did:
- right handle switch : OK
- right handle switch cable connection under dashboard : OK
- right handle plug voltage under dashboard : +12V OK
Any idea ?
My template are not that accurate atm, so I'll use my brand new Proxxon 70 miller.
Exactly what I would wish I had to cut C'mon front panels :)
:) Remind me a previous private joke
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