you're killing me :)
Thanks, I'll share its iso image on my web site (60 megs). If anyone want to play with it, PM me.
It installs on windows OS but beware the application autostart and cover windows desktop. So it is advised not to do this on your personnal PC but rather a Vmware image or a spare PC.
Mine as been working LOUD for one year and a half :)
This is a EFI driven engine, that means there's no screw for idle. All is done through Moditec setup...
Regarding the amount of R&D needed, I'd rather you would invest in a middle-age armor :)
Well, another exciting project :)
Wow, impressive surgery!
Is that a kind of special rebate from your local butcher ? :(
Maybe try to use a vacum to its end while shaking it ?
You could try with a stick and chewing-gum :)
sorry, Just kidding!
Did a test drive this morning, a perfect 25 km ride through town and highways with heated seat and grips plus FAS LOUD.
Back at home, checked oil level - toped up to reach gauge maximum. Checked ECU faults - None !
Looks like I'm set to carry on with my faithful one.
Many thanks to Lawrie and members for support!
Today with the help of a friend I've gone through Lawrie's instructions and succesfully fix my alternator. I decided to replace all 3 wires with new from the plug to the magnets. When testing, I noticed that voltage no more drop when switching the front light on, that mean the alternator is delivering full power :)
Will test drive it tommorw morning.
Please make no mistake, I was not complaining :)
Choosing the right option is all about balancing pros ans cons, so your feedback is valuable.
Well, I must confess I'm a bit confused now :(
The hint about 10w60 full synthetic oil comes from joachim through my friend. Joachim is a german guy that has rebuilt a bunch of C1 engines (btw he often win ANY ebay auction when that was about an used C1 engine). He leads a large german community and he inspected a lot of broken engine with standard oil whereas none with those gold priced synthetic oils. The main pro is about the fact that our engine get very hot so oil should be as efficient as possible at high temperature.
Yesterday I bought this 10W60 synthetic oil bottle thinking it was the best choice (liquide gold, 15EUR for 1 litter)...
Now I have to choose between a thrusted friend connected to a large german community and another thrusted community of UK C1er... :(
Should I get my money back ?
My friend said to use car oil with C1 because it have an automatic transmission, so there's no particular issue about loosing "grip" on clutch.
He also told me to use oil with best lube factor for high temperatures (second number must be higher possible). He told also to choose 5 or 10 for the first number but not below (lube factor for cold temperature). At least, despite their price synthesis oils seems best.
So I think I'll go for car oil type 10w60 or 5w50, 100% synthesis.
I need to drain and replace my C1's oil. BMW standard is 10W40 but I've been advised by a german speaking friend (he's member of a German C1 forums) to use 10W60 or 5W50 instead...
Any comments on that ?
Holly sh*t, it looks like you're going through an unlucky trend :(
I wish you a quick recovery and hope you'll manage to sort out a good C1 out of your 2 "wrecks".
Take care. Jerome
Hehe, I think you deserve your yearly C1ub award :)
Great, my C'mon in action :)
Thanks Lawrie, reading you it seems to be quite straightforward :)
Did one month ago 15K service, I've been told that one of the 3 alternator wires was cut. BMW would fix (replace) this for about 650 EUR !!!
I thinking of fixing this by myself.
Any advice/explanation on how to dismount alternator so I could resolder 3 brand new wires on solenoids ?
Repair manual is not that explicit on that :)
Yes he did, for this he ordered option C, plus a brand new battery :)
and a coffee grinding machine ? :)
Work is progressing well, 6 units are beeing build. Here are some pictures
I agree with the overheating issue, my first C1 had this and I broke engine gasket joint at 22000km :(
In that case you would loose FAS integrated combo commands.
You have to dismount dashboard and side panels to recycle FAS wiring harness, this will involve several hours of work. If needed you can read FAS fitting instructions to guide you through this (these are available in another thread).
wow, I wish I could play with this one :)
I have to admit this one of the numerous DIY project I will love to go through, unfortunately I'm affraid one life won't be enough to fulfill my technical greed :)
could be if additional TIS cd for C1 is provided in the package
Interesting, however appart the fact this is not the right plug I'm not sure this would handle C1 ECU codes. If someone owns a BMW car and fancy investing in this one, let me know ;)
This is quite unusual to see a C1er driving without belts in Paris, thrust me :)
maybe I was wrong and FAS speakers are 8 ohms, could you ohm them out ?
No. You need a digital volume controller. This could be done with a modified Boombox without power amp so you would just wire unamplified output to your hg amp. (I did that for an Italian C1er)
The reason why your hg amp can't drive properly FAS speakers is due to incompatible impedances of speakers (impedance=internal resistance) . FAS speakers are 4 ohms whereas hg amp might be designed for 32 ohm speakers. Usually an amp is able to drive higher impedance speakers, but not lower ones...
I hope it's clear as I'm reaching the limits of my english skills :)
Sorry for late answer...
Yes this is possible, by using a subset of my FAS circuit
Btw, I've got an genuine spare FAS amp if you're interested, it could also be upgraded to Boombox if needed :)
Let's say it's a paranoid setup from BMW to avoid any parasite on K-BUS (+12V shorted to K-LINE). FYI my ABS worked for weeks without that special plug.
Check battery leads, sounds like a bad connection, a friend of mine had the same issue.
Just a though, it might be a special thermal resistor, usually used to protect circuit from overheating... Do you have any pic of this component ?
I'm sorry but I won't release the source code for that project, you may understand that there's a huge amount of personnal investment on this and I don't have much time to do any kind of support on it.
I could however propose two additional options:
- PCB + programmed microchip IC + programmed Serial eeprom + BMW Diagnostic plug for around 90 EUR (you have to buy by yourself electronic parts)
- complete kit (including BMW Diag plug) + programmed microchip IC + programmed serial eeprom for around 140 EUR.
You have to understand that this kit is way more complex than my FAS modified amp, there's about 60 electronic and miscellanous parts involved, some SOIC & SMD soldering (Surface Mount Devies), and some are quite hard to find:
- Modified BMW Diag Plug
- SMD MAX202D
- SMD MC33290
- SMD/DIL PIC18F2515
- SMD resistors and capacitors
Don't worry about that my friend, I'm 35 and also pay people to do that because IT IS REALLY exhausting :)
I think a high power diode should do easily the job. I'm not a diode specialist, but your favorite electronic shop should advise well...
>> what I need is a blocking diode to stop my feed going back through the electrics as it disables the kill switch
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