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Up Topic Open Technical Section / C1 Technical Chat / temp gauge
- - By bolt-on-billy Date 30-08-2007 20:53
well the c1 was a copy of the leonardo set up - so why didn't they include the temp gauge?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Aprilia-Leonardo-125-Clocks_W0QQitemZ160148521579QQihZ006QQcategoryZ78417QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
Parent - - By Marino Date 30-08-2007 22:27

> why didn't they include the temp gauge?


Why not indeed? Those clocks are far nicer than ours :-(
Parent - - By bolt-on-billy Date 30-08-2007 22:34
I cant decide if they'd fit without getting a set. if the temp sensor is the same on the leo then it would patch in as the two spare points on our plug can be used to give a reading. not sure if its a leccy or cable speedo though.

I really should buy a scrap leo and strip it down.
Parent - - By chairman21 Date 30-08-2007 22:40
Nice temperature and oil gauge on the german C1 club site under Öldruckanzeige:

http://www.airklaus.de/BMW_C1/tipps___tricks/tipps___tricks.html

as well as dozens of other ones, check out that petrol tank in the battery compartment.
Parent - - By bolt-on-billy Date 30-08-2007 22:45
cant decide what he did to the pressure sensor there.
Parent - - By jp72 Date 31-08-2007 05:32
Now I've got that information on my new gimmick, without messing with coolant pipes :)
Parent - - By bolt-on-billy Date 31-08-2007 14:07
actually jeromer you might be able to help - I patched into the engine temp sensor using the pins unused by bmw and it does give a reading but its roughly 18 degrees higher than the one for the gauge I've got. I'm not used to electronics but we wondered if we could add a resistor to slow it down it down a bit?
Parent - - By jp72 Date 31-08-2007 14:43 Edited 31-08-2007 15:00
I believe that temperature sensor is a heat variable resistor. So you might put in serie a potentiometer with the probe (outer and middle legs) to allow a trimming of the measurement.
Now the question is "what is the most appropriate value for that pot?"

If I were you I would ohm out the probe after disconnecting it and choose the pot value according to the error ratio of temperature measurement.

Example:

- Probe is x omhs
- Real coolant temperature is : y degree
- Measured coolant temperature is z ohms

so % error on measurement is (y-z)/y assuming y>z

so pot should have a value equal or above 2*(x*(y-z)/y)

For this I assume that both pot and probe are linear and that probe needs an ohm up trimming.... Otherwise, probe and pot would have to be put in parallele to lower probe impedance, pot value would be different aswell.

I hope it'll helps and won't startup another horror pictures show in this thread (planes, tanks etc...) :)

Regards,

Jerome
Parent - - By bolt-on-billy Date 31-08-2007 14:48
so what you're saying is hit it with a hammer then and fit a proper gauge :-o

I assumed it was a resistor and checked the voltages I could put through it before I added the extra two pins. I didn't like the engine telling me it was running at 120 degrees though. :-)
Parent - - By jp72 Date 31-08-2007 15:03

>> I didn't like the engine telling me it was running at 120 degrees though


So do I !
My new diagnostic toy told me that temperature is rising when the C1 is stopped with its engine idling.
When riding temperature keeps below 90°C... :)
Parent - - By bolt-on-billy Date 31-08-2007 15:07
I found that when riding the engine goes 95 degrees plus before the fan kicks in. traffic running is the worst for it but motorways they tend to rest at 88 degrees or so I fitted a 12v feed to the fan and overrode it which knocks 15-20 degrees off. what I need is a blocking diode to stop my feed going back through the electrics as it disables the kill switch.
Parent - - By jp72 Date 31-08-2007 15:10

>> what I need is a blocking diode to stop my feed going back through the electrics as it disables the kill switch


I agree.
Parent - - By bolt-on-billy Date 31-08-2007 15:11
any idea what one I should fit - got no problem soldering or indeed what I need to fit but not so great on what specs are required. :-)
Parent - By bolt-on-billy Date 31-08-2007 15:12
kill switch no issue anyway as the ignition is centimeters away but it would be good to know :-)
Parent - - By jp72 Date 31-08-2007 19:15
I think a high power diode should do easily the job. I'm not a diode specialist, but your favorite electronic shop should advise well...
Parent - - By larry Date 02-09-2007 03:31
Do you know how much current is required?

I imagine it is a few amps max, but that is the principle factor is choosing a diode.
Let me know the peak/typical current and I'll try to come up with some part numbers [or parts if I have one in my bins].
Parent - - By Marino Date 02-09-2007 10:08
Hi Larry good to hear from you, were you on vacation? Have you seen that brother of mine lately? :-)
Parent - By larry Date 02-09-2007 21:09
Vacation/travel/business/family has been overwheming since july, I still am riding a bit and checking up here every now and then.
Sal and I have tried a few times to get togehter but there always seems to either be a conflict or something comes up with one of our families.  I hope we go for another ride soon.  I've been using the bike quite a bit for my travel to meetings and such in town and around, It is so much more convenient to be able to just park it anywhere.  I also tend to take the scenic routes as well which makes getting there more pleasant as well.

Speak to you soon! [and hopefully Sal too]
Parent - By jp72 Date 31-08-2007 15:08
Anyway, I advise you not to mess with C1 probes, you'd better put up an independant probe connected to your gauge. If you disturb engine coolant measurement system, this could prevent the fan to startup when temp is over 100°C or to be active all the time!
Up Topic Open Technical Section / C1 Technical Chat / temp gauge

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