okay my turn for once - cant get her to stay running at idle. not valves but I did change the inlet shims as they were tight for once, changed the lambda and reset the tuning via the device. compression, fuel and spark all ok. wondering if there is such a thing as bike flu?
its classic valve symptoms but without the associated issues
Isn't the idle speed an electronically set up thing these days? The old fiddling with stop screws (oo-er) has gone, so a computer has to tell it what speed to idle at. If the ECU "forgets" this I suppose it needs to connect up to a computer again for a reminder... Or something like that :-)
dont know It was running spot on since I grafted it off the wreck, the only issue beside the tight inlet valves is a drippy water pump I need to address. the thermostat and coolant levels are fine, the oil light stays off once started. I reset the ecu settings with jeromes widget sso it shouldn't be that. it runs fine on startup then slowly hiccups then stalls just like bad valves but restarts first time, again like valves
so I'll look at fixing the pump as thats the only thing not dealt with. cant decide if its worth stripping it down just in case.
What you need is a more expensive mechanic and less faith :-)
cant spare the three grand for the bmw mechanic to tell me he cant fix it and I need a new engine at another three grand. I'll just get a spare one out of the garage and bung that in.
I'll get there, the problem is my knee and wrist hindering my capability rather than the engine only spent a couple of hours on it but it still hurts. it runs but I was wary about burning a valve and I've ruled that out.
Is it stalling just from tick over or is it after a run; ok on the run? If former and you have not tried latter, blocked air filter, blocked fuel line, air in fuel?
Judging by your comment on another thread, it is ok on a run. What about air in the fuel line then - alright with revs up, alright on start when computer is balancing but at end of a run or on long tick over the fuel gets lean and then the little extra air becomes a problem?
Try with a new or as good as new battery. I noticed that the electronics (and hence the ignition) seems to be more sensible to a high voltage then the starter motor. Since the alternator does not charge the battery when at idle speed it is only the battery supplying the current for the electronics and a battery can drop in voltage when older.
its got a 38 amp gel battery in there so I'm not worried about the voltage. I think its a heat thing morenlikely
Today I change to ECU software version 8000, it solves my startiong and idle problems. My former version was 7200. If you know a BMW garage that owns a ModiTec this could be worth the price.
Will the C'Mon tell you which version?
Of course it does :)
You just have to browse into "ECU Diagnostic->ECU Info->SW Version" menus.
You mean Man Bike Flu? ;)
mind you it was the engine I crashed this time last year so it could be its in mourning for the rest of the bike, a bit like my wrist was throbbing like crazy the anniversary of the break, op and hostible time.
Powered by mwForum 2.29.3 © 1999-2013 Markus Wichitill